Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Jåhkåmåhke Två (2)

Sunday 1/25/15

Found out today that Jokkmokk comes from the Sami word for river bend because the first building in the village was built on the bend.

We saw the northern lights!! Every night we've been walking out the a nearby lake to look at the stars and hopes to see aurora borealis. They were so beautiful I was speechless. It is near impossible to describe in words so here are some pictures. Thank goodness we have two boys on our trip into photography who were able to capture the moment.


me, kenzie, walley




Monday 1/26/15

Today we had class at the Sami School two blocks from our hostel. Our classroom was named Soahki which means birch in Sami. The birch is and was an important part of Sami life and culture. We met a teacher of the school and introduced ourselves. After lunch we took tours of the handicraft classrooms.

The school is similar to a technical school in the US. It is optional and some attend it after the equivalent of our high school. It is two years to learn soft craft like making clothes and two years to learn hard craft like carving knives. Most Sami students attend to simply learn the craft and a few plan to make a profession out of it. Their works will be sold at the upcoming Winter Market. It was fascinating to learn who they make their handicrafts or duodji. They use antlers, birch, copper etc. The students go out in the autumn to collect their materials.

One observation I have made is that any Swede, or Sami, love to talk politics. If you get into a conversation that lasts more than five minutes you can guarantee they will ask you about it. Our dogsled tour guide discussed Sami rights and history. At the school the Sami students asked us if we had problems with mines in the US like they are having in Sápmi. The state imposed mines in the area disrupt the land and reindeer herding, like in the town Kiruna which is being moved because of the mine

At night our entire group watched The Interview. I love that we all get along and can spontaneously get together and hang out. We got lucky.

Tuesday 1/27/15

Today we met another Sami named Lars-Anders Baer. He is a loyal was a member of Sami Parliament. He took us to the Ájtte museum four blocks from our hostel. It is an amazing place! As a museum its exhibits are fantastic about the area and people's culture. The tour guide gave us examples of traditional sami artifacts and we had to guess what they were used for. It included reindeer harnesses, clothing and tools. They had several interactive games and exhibits. They had a sled race and a "guess the tree, bird
and rock" game.

Recreation of a sacrificial spot near a Sjetten, or sacred rock, at the museum.
A real sacred rock that a family worshipped at. It was stolen over 100 years ago and a museum in Stockholm, who didn't know how they obtained it, returned it to the Jokkmokk area. 


After lunch we took a tour of the municipal building for Jokkmokk and got a lecture on local politics. Then we had a lecture by Lars about Sami culture. What is neat is that a citizen of the area is able to speak Sami to their officials (notice the three languages on the sign: Swedish, North Sami, Luleå Sami)

Me and Paget
For dinner we ate at a delicious Thai restaurant in the arctic circle!! To end the night we went to American Sniper at the local movie theater. Humorously a boy in front of us took a picture with flash of a woman on screen in her underwear. I'm curious what the Swedes thought about the movie?

Wednesday 1/28/15

Today Lars took us on a bus tour towards the Norwegian border.

Here is a hydroelectric dam with Sami murals. Dams are a big part of the region. Most of the profit goes South to Stockholm but the Sami are directly impacted negatively with reduced lands for grazing and forced relocation. Power plants like this however help Sweden be a leader in green energy. 
Reindeer!! They were all over the roads. They run all dopey just like Sven from Frozen. 

fika on the bus!! 

A traditional lunch. Not sure what it was exactly. Definitely involved pork and the sauce is from lingonberries which are really popular here. We ate at a cute tourist lodge in the mountains. 

Me and Sidney



Lars-Anders Baer in his Seal coat and reindeer hide boots.


Naturum Laponia. This is an almost brand-new building that is now the world heritage center for the Laponia area. The area consist of four wild life reserves and is all around gorgeous. I would love to come back in the summer.


Hannah napping on the bus on the way home :)

Sunday, January 25, 2015

Dog Sledding, Jokkmokk

Sunday 1/25/15

My life is complete. I had the fortune to go on a dog sledding excursion this morning! Twelve of us went on three sleds. Four of us were sitting on the sled and I sat in the front. It felt like my eyeballs were freezing. We were sitting on reindeer hide. We all had to put on these giant jumpsuits but they turned out to be so warm. Apparently a few weeks ago the company we went with took Kate Moss and her family on a trip. One of our guides said the wild woods are great because everyone is equal. Everyone gets cold, no matter if you're a celebrity.

They also had the American ambassador one year on a tour who was escorted by Swedish guards on snowmobiles. The Swedish princess wanted to go for a ride during their busiest week so the tour company gave them the price it would cost for a special tour and the royal family was upset they had to pay and went elsewhere.

Our guide loved to talk about American culture based on the movies he's seen like American Pie, Rambo and the TV show Fargo. He was joking he bought the company yesterday and read up online how to dog sled. Also that he was drunk. He also liked to talk about politics.

Zach, Britta, Paget, Me, Becca

Zach, Britta, Me

tour guide, Pat, me
Paget 
(It is good us girls have different color hats otherwise it would be near impossible to tell who is who when we are all wearing the jumpsuits)!
Britta
 Me

They love me! Made me miss my dog :( Definitely getting a husky
lunch break in the woods

 Britta
cooking sausage over fire, also had coffee and rolls

hungry dogs after their work out








Friday, January 23, 2015

Ice Hotel-Jukkasjärvi, SE

Friday 1/23/15
Today we traveled 3 hours north to the ice hotel. The rooms are expensive so we did a day trip. Had to stop several times for reindeer in the road. We ended up going a little too far north because we got lost. The farthest latitude I've gone now is 68.05 degrees North. 0.8 degrees farther than my dad did in Alaska! It was about -30 degrees ambient fahrenheit but not as cold actually inside the hotel.

Every year they build the hotel using casts and water from the Torne river, into which the ice melts at the end of the season. The water is cleaner than most drinking waters because the river is so slow moving and deep. There were many rooms, an ice bar and a church. Some of the rooms were suites with unique ice and snow art sculptures and designs. It is impossible to describe the beauty and wonderment of the place so here are some pictures!

an awesome painting in the reception building
entrance of the hotel, complete with reindeer fur and antler handles

absolut inspired ice bar, other ice bars are in Stockholm and London
Ruby and Sidney enjoying a cocktail in an ice glass

dog sled behind on the Torne River
Sidney and I in one of the rooms
A Suite
other wall of suite
Sidney and I at a table in one of the rooms
Another suite with wolf sculptures 











Thursday, January 22, 2015

Jokkmokk Part Ett (1)

Officially on the arctic circle! Last night we went to see the stars and it was -20 degrees fahrenheit ambient. So glad I packed my snow pants! Jokkmokk is a northern village in Sapmi of 2,800 people. Soon it will swell by 30,000 for the winter market and conference but we get to enjoy the peace the village experiences the rest of the year.
hostel in Jokkmokk


the hiking path, saw reindeer paths and beds

me, paget


frozen stream

me, thumper, sidney

me, thumper, sidney, zach

walley and me. Frozen lake behind